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DRIVING QUICK ON CW13 INSTALL
Slide the new rotor on… Take note! The Giro Disc’s are directional and if you install them incorrectly the cooling vanes will not work as efficiently. If you do not clean it all off, it will cause your pads to not bed in properly and you will not be able to get the most from your new setup. New rotors will come coated in oil to help prevent rust while in storage or shipping. When installing the new rotors be sure to clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner to get off all the oil that is on the rotor. This was really the main reason I decided to try out the Carbotech Xp12’s up front. Since my car is new, I didn’t want to risk ruining the paint less than a year into ownership. I had also read online that the dust created by the DTC 70’s would stain my car, and my wheels. There was such dense fog that we didn’t even get on track until 1:00pm (we were supposed to start at 8am), it was literally freezing cold and wet all morning long, so once the fog and cleared and we were allowed on track, it was still damp. I only had one track day on these pads and wasn’t convinced they were right for me, but to be fair the track day was kind of a shit one altogether. So… On my sixth track day I opted to try the Hawk DTC 70 pad. I still have about 1/3 pad life left on the ST-43’s but I wanted to try something with a little more heat capabilities.
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This was apparent because I was having to push harder on the pedal to get the car to brake the same as it was at the beginning of the session. The ST-43 pad actually worked fairly well for me, but towards the end of the session you could tell the pad was out of its optimal operating temp range. My first choice was Raybestos ST-43 pads that I had in for five of those six track days. This is after a total of six track days, and two different pad compounds. It’s tough to see, but below I have tried to capture all the micro cracks and overall rotor condition. These rotors are the exact same diameter and thickness of the OEM and will bolt directly on without any modifications.
DRIVING QUICK ON CW13 SERIES
The FK8 is nearly 1000 pounds heavier than a B series hatchback (EG/EK), has MacPherson front suspension, and some crazy dual axis suspension to help combat torque steer.Īnyway, Giro Disc’s have been proven time and time again by many fast guys to hold up even under the harshest of conditions. The FK8 platform can’t be driven like the golden era Honda’s of the 90’s and early 2000’s. This is something that I have identified and am working on every time I’m on track. I will accept some blame and say that my driving style might need to be tweaked to better fit the FK8 platform.
DRIVING QUICK ON CW13 FULL
I’m running 2:00 flat at Buttonwillow CW13 with 265/35 RS-4’s (aka the last real street tire), stock ECU (no tune), stock exhaust, full interior (floor mats and all). I know there are people that are tracking their FK8’s without this issue but my question to them is, what are their lap times? I bet they aren’t driving quick enough to experience brake fade. Whether it is just the brakes themselves getting too hot and discoloring the caliper, the pedal growing longer due to overheating pad and rotor, or a bad case of brake fade going into Sunset or Sunrise corners at Buttonwillow. So far, every track day I have done, I have had some sort of “brakes getting too hot” issue. On to the Giro Disc install…This are my last-ditch effort to solve the overheating caliper/brake issue and stop the further browning of my BROWNBO’S.